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Saturday, August 12, 2017

The West Coast of North Carolina



There is always time to stop and smell em.

Asheville, the last stop on our 10-week tour of North Carolina, is about the closest you are likely to get to a West Coast vibe in this southern state; lots of craft beer breweries, tons of restaurants and a walkable, well-preserved downtown in a pretty, cool and dry mountain setting.

We loved it.
A little different than the view we had at the Motor Speedway in Charlotte!

And it didn’t hurt that our RV “park”, not too far north of the city, resembled an actual park, with spectacular views looking west into the French Broad River Valley.

On a positive note, the summit wasn't very crowded.


We chose the rainiest, foggiest day of our five-night stay to drive a section of the Blue Ridge Parkway and hike the short trail to the summit of Mt. Mitchell, the highest point in the U.S. east of the Mississippi River.

Other Asheville area stops included state historic sites at the homes of Zebulon Vance, the state’s governor during secession and a U.S. senator for many years afterward, and; the author Thomas Wolfe. We took a great, self-guided walking tour of downtown, visited the new, high-tech Sierra Nevada Brewery on the outskirts of town, toured the Vanderbilt Mansion and Gardens, checked out the vibrant arts district in the river bottoms and attended not one but two Asheville Tourists minor league games.

Blowing big bubbles in downtown Asheville.
Thomas Wolfe was, literally, a literary giant.
I suppose that, if you are going to brew a beer called Sierra Nevada in the Appalachian Mountains, Asheville is probably the place to do it.

The Biltmore Estate is really, really big and a surprisingly cool thing to see.

It's not for sale but we are thinking about making an offer.

In the movie Bull Durham Crash Davis was released from the Bulls but caught on with the Asheville Tourists, where he eventually set the record for minor league home runs by a catcher when he went yard into the trees beyond the left field fence here at McCormick Field in Asheville.
Asheville was mascot heaven for Betsy. First Mr. Moon...
...then Ted E. Tourist!
And finally, a bonus we never saw coming; Astros Hall-of-Famer Craig Biggio played for the Tourists!
North Carolina is now, officially, in the rear view mirror. We will arrive in Kentucky tomorrow. The wedding is less than a week away.


Friday, August 11, 2017

Serendipity in Hickory

A man walking his cat in our RV park near Hickory, N.C.

Hickory, the penultimate stop on our 10-week tour of the Carolinas, was a throw-away; added to the agenda mainly because it has a minor-league baseball team and fit in nicely en the route to Asheville.

But our three-night stop in this burg famous for its furniture turned out to be full of pleasant surprises and unique serendipities when we used it as a base to explore the surrounding area.

Topping the serendipity list was our close-up encounter with the Governor of North Carolina, Roy Cooper, at a small event in Boone. Boone is near the Blue Ridge Parkway in the mountains north of Hickory and we drove up there mainly because it is home to Appalachian State University, which is the school that conferred a Masters degree on our soon-to-be daughter-in-law (before she went to law school and met Tex). Plus, we’d heard good things about Boone. So we went with no particular plan other than poking around the campus a bit, grabbing some lunch and stopping en route to tour Fort Defiance, the plantation home of Revolutionary War General William Lenoir.

The App State campus was pretty and pretty much empty but Boone was a beehive of activity. As we were strolling down one of the main streets shopping for the t-shirts that we so desperately don’t need I noticed a sign on the marquee of a small theater that said the governor would be there to speak in just a few hours!
Us and the App State Mountaineer

So we ate lunch, shopped for t-shirts and returned to the theater at the appointed hour and sure enough a crowd had gathered and before long a guy named John Cooper, who looked a lot like Gov. Roy Cooper, took the podium to talk a bit about the theater that he and other “Boonies” are endeavoring to refurbish and re-open. Then he introduced the governor.

We assumed John Cooper was Roy Cooper’s brother but it turns out they are not related. However, we later figured out that John Cooper and his wife Faye are the owners of the Mast General Stores.

That probably does not mean much to many readers and it wouldn’t have to us either except that, en route to North Carolina earlier this summer, we had by chance visited a Mast Store in Knoxville. We had never heard of Mast General Store but there are eight of them in the Appalachian region of Tennessee and the Carolinas and they seem to have a strong following for an eclectic, wide-ranging mix of products and a history that stretches back more than a century.

The governor gave a good, succinct stump speech before surprising the Masts with an award called the Order of the Long Leaf Pine.

We had never heard of the award either but, of course, our ears perked up when we heard the name of the award because of our experience and knowledge of the Long Leaf Pine gained at Moores Creek NB.

It turns out that North Carolina governors have presented more than 15,000 of these awards over the decades to confer “The Order of the Long Leaf Pine with the rank of Ambassador Extraordinary” on deserving people with North Carolina roots such as Dale Earnhardt, Jeff Gordon, Michael Jordan, Oprah Winfrey, Maya Angelou, and Andy Griffith.

Once conferred these ambassadors have the “special privilege” to propose the following toast in “select company anywhere in the free world”. That toast reads as follows:

    Here's to the land of the long leaf pine,
    The summer land where the sun doth shine,
    Where the weak grow strong and the strong grow great,
    Here's to "Down Home," the Old North State!

    Here's to the land of the cotton bloom white,
    Where the scuppernong perfumes the breeze at night,
    Where the soft southern moss and jessamine mate,
    'Neath the murmuring pines of the Old North State!

    Here's to the land where the galax grows,
    Where the rhododendron's rosette glows,
    Where soars Mount Mitchell's summit great,
    In the "Land of the Sky," in the Old North State!

    Here's to the land where maidens are fair,
    Where friends are true and cold hearts rare,
    The near land, the dear land, whatever fate,
    The blessed land, the best land, the Old North State!

Needless to say we thought this was a glorious way to begin our final week in “the Old North State!”

The Saturday morning farmer's market in downtown Hickory.
In addition to the serendipitous trip to Boone we made an ill-fated attempt to visit the Sen. Sam Ervin (remember the Watergate hearings) historic site in Morganton (it’s closed on weekends); shopped at a great farmer's market in downtown Hickory; stopped in at the Fort Dobbs state historic site near Statesville; bought 13 pairs of socks at the Thorlo outlet store in Statesville, and; wrapped up our tour of the North Carolina stops on George Washington’s 1791 Southern Tour with a visit to Salisbury, which is also the home of Cheerwine (a popular soft drink in the Carolinas).
Been there, done that. With this stop in Salisbury we have now been to every place in N.C. - in many cases the exact places - that George Washington trod on his 1791 Southern Tour. (That's the Rowan County Courthouse in the background.)
Apparently Cheerwine is a big deal in North Carolina, still made in and distributed from Salisbury and sold in the stores throughout the state. But don't feel bad, I'd never heard of it either.

Of course we also attended a Hickory Crawdads baseball game and gave the park a good review, with high marks on several important ranking criteria such as “mascot availability” and “beer selection”. 
Our #5-ranked N.C. minor league stadium.

Conrad was not impressed with Betsy's claw but he still received high marks for "Mascot Accessibility".
An anonymous source inside the Pasley Administration has leaked information to the blog that I am planning a “grand finale blog post” that will reflect on and summarize our entire experience in North Carolina this summer. That same source has also disclosed a highly classified list indicating that the L.P. Frans Stadium, home of the the Hickory Crawdads, will end up ranked fifth on the list of 11 minor league stadiums/teams that we have visited here in North Carolina this summer.


Note: We are leaving North Carolina today and heading toward Lexington for the wedding. However, we've spent the last six days in Asheville and had a great time here so I hope to have a blog post out to report on some of those adventures soon. I hope to follow that up with a post wrapping up and reflecting on our travels through this beautiful and unique state that we've liked a lot better than we thought we would.




Wednesday, August 2, 2017

Having a royal time in the Queen City


Pretty scary, huh?

Prior to this trip Betsy and I had been to Charlotte one time each (on separate trips, many years ago, to attend work-related conferences). Neither of us were very impressed with the city on those visits, and my stay came to an abrupt and memorable end – exactly 23 years ago today – when I got an early morning call telling me that my Dad had died.

Needless to say we had low expectations for our second visits, but they were far exceeded. Charlotte is an impressive city and we liked it a lot better the second time around.

The city is named for King George III’s wife, Charlotte of Mecklenburg-Strelitz (who gave birth to 15 children). It's a clean, bustling city with an impressive skyline and a prosperous vibe. On our various stops around town the people were friendly, it was easy to get around and the city appears to be doing a lot of things right; including a beautiful downtown baseball stadium, an extensive light rail system to the suburbs and a downtown streetcar connector.

San Antonio, of course, hasn’t been able to do any of those things and it was natural for us to compare the two cities.

Bexar County has nearly twice the population of Mecklenburg County, closing in on 2 million while Mecklenburg just passed the million mark. While both places have “majority-minority” populations with declining percentages of whites there are some substantial differences.

The most obvious is the number of blacks. One third of the people in Mecklenburg County are black compared to less than 10 percent in Bexar County. On the other hand, the non-Hispanic white presence in Mecklenburg is much greater than it is in Bexar; 48 percent to 28 percent.

The median income in Mecklenburg County is significantly higher ($6,000-plus per household) than Bexar and the percent in poverty is one point less. However, the demographic difference between the two cities that really stands out to me is the whopping 42-plus percent of people in Mecklenburg over the age of 25 with a college degree compared to less than 27 percent in Bexar County.

Bottom line, Charlotte is an impressive city doing a lot of things right; clearly a rising star on the East Coast.

My cousin’s daughter lives in Charlotte and she invited us over to her house for Sunday dinner with her husband and two adorable kids. It was a great visit and fun to get to know them a little better. 

We were just beginning to digest the peach pie when then they mentioned they had a Tesla!  

What the…a Tesla? Would we like to take a ride in the Tesla? Hell yes!
 
A glimpse of the future?
From there we (sheepishly) drove our old school gasoline-powered truck (that I had to steer and brake myself) to the baseball game at the very nice, new downtown ballpark. 

The stadium itself was great but the thing about it that is really spectacular is the view of the downtown skyline. I’d rank the setting of BB&T Ballpark in Charlotte up there with any stadium in the Major Leagues.
 

Take a guess why this big, fuzzy green thing (the one on the left) is the mascot (named Homer) of the Charlotte Knights AAA baseball team?
Answer: it's a dragon! Get it? Knights and dragons?
One thing Charlotte does lack is quality, convenient RV parks. So, with limited options, we decided to stay at a massive RV park(ing lot) adjacent to the Charlotte Motor Speedway in the suburb of Concord. 


Betsy is pointing to the Charlotte Motor Speedway in the distance. I'm sure the RV Park(ing lot) has a few more customers on race day.
It’s butt-ugly, but functional and convenient for a lot of the things we needed to do; which included some truck maintenance and a second minor league baseball game in the Charlotte suburb of Kannapolis.
Supposedly, the Billy Graham Library and Home is the top-rated attraction in Charlotte. We are not so sure about that.

For some reason many of the cell towers in Charlotte are "disguised" as trees.



Price's Chicken Coop is supposed to have the best fried chicken in Charlotte and we have no reason to disagree with that assessment. The fried shrimp is pretty darn good too!

My distant relative, the 11th President of the United States James K. Polk was born in Pineville which is now a suburb of Charlotte so we paid a visit to this state historic site.
We are not, to say the least, fans of NASCAR so it was not readily apparent to us why the name of the "low" Class A baseball team in the Charlotte suburb of Kannapolis is "Terminators". Apparently "Terminator" is a nickname for the race car driver Dale Earnhardt, who was born in Kannapolis. OK, fine. But that raises a second question. What is the mascot for a "Terninator"?

Answer: Timmy Gator, the Terminator. I swear I'm not making this up.

If they had not bused in a bunch of kids from summer camps it would have been pretty lonely at the game between the Kannapolis Terminators and the Delmarva (Delaware) Shore Birds.
 
On the other hand, pretty good seats huh?

I’ll close out this post, and our stay in Charlotte, with a shout out to my Dad - John Pasley. He’s been an angel on my shoulder for 23 years now, and counting.