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Sunday, October 9, 2016

Beer joints, cheese curds, "special events" and “stops”; our summer trip in lists (ranked of course)




The view out the window of the travel trailer at our summer "base camp" in Washburn, Wisconsin.




The leaves have turned. Sprinkles of color have become splashes. Apples are red and ripe. The soybean and corn harvest is underway. Frost is near. It’s time (finally) for us to go home (or at least start, sort of, moving in that direction).

This means of course (as anyone who knows me already knows) that it’s now time to summarize our summer in lists and rankings; plus a fair number of random, rambling, anecdotal musings.

Where to begin? How about the beginning?

Last January when I began planning out the trip it seemed to be shaping up as the most disjointed and least thematic in our series of “really-get-to-know-a-state" travels. For starters there were two tours of duty volunteering on Sand Island in a remote corner of Wisconsin. And if we were going to visit Tex and Rachel in Chicago shouldn’t we go to the Illinois State Fair? And if we went to that ISF why not go to the ISF next door (in Indiana)? And if we are going as far east as Indianapolis why not go another 100 miles down I-70 to Dayton, Ohio to finish up our truncated 2014 R-G-T-K tour of Ohio? And, of course, there was a good-sized chunk of Wisconsin still that needed to get "really known".

On paper it seemed random and chaotic, yet somehow everything ended up tying together in a big, beautiful bow of serendipity-connected threads that began with our first seemingly-disconnected but unknowingly-connected stop in Galena, Illinois, en route to Madison.

Galena, a word meaning "the main ore of lead" AND a city in Illinois that was a major 19th-Century lead mining center AND a Mississippi River port (even though it is not on the Mississippi River) AND home to Ulysses and Julia Grant AND a 21st-Century tourist destination. Galena is a surprisingly pleasant, interesting place with strong historic ties to the early settlement of Wisconsin that, serendipitously of course, turned out to be the perfect launching point for our summer-long stay in the Badger State.

We stopped in Galena only because I had had a hankering to go there ever since reading a biography of Ulysses Grant a couple of years ago. Galena was Grant’s adopted hometown and, after the Civil War, the town gave him a nice house which he and his wife Julia enjoyed immensely. Basically, I just wanted to look at the house but in doing so we discovered that Galena is a beautiful, historic-but-also-trendy town that was a focal point of the 19th Century lead mining industry that brought the first immigrants to Wisconsin where their “badger-like” digging inspired the state’s nickname.

And that pretty much set the tone for the rest of the trip as one stop unexpectedly related to another.

The Unitarian Meeting House near the University of Wisconsin campus in Madison was our first Frank Lloyd Wright-designed building of the summer, but it would not be the last.

In Madison we heard the (tall?) tale of Frank Lloyd Wright being inspired to a career in architecture after witnessing the collapse of the state capitol building when he was a student at the University of Wisconsin so, on a whim, that story inspired us to bike over to look at a nearby Unitarian Church that Wright had designed. Little did we know that FLW's work would follow us around on the trip as we looked at numerous buildings he designed, including of course his own house, Taliesin, which we did not visit until August but which overlooks the Wisconsin River that was itself a prominent and connecting feature on many of our earlier tour stops in June and July.

And, speaking of people named Wright; the Wright Brothers were contemporaries of FLW and the three men may have crossed paths at the Columbian Exposition in Chicago in 1893, which of course left a lasting legacy there that we learned about while visiting the Chicago History Museum with Tex and Rachel.

Still, going all the way over to Dayton seemed ridiculous even as we were en route. But when we got there we both gained for the first time a true appreciation of the enormity and significance of the pioneering achievements of the eclectic Wright brothers and their unbelievable invention and all that it has inspired.

Illogical as it may have seemed, Dayton turned out to be one of the best stops of the summer.
Just a small sliver of the cavernous National Museum of the United State Air Force at Wright-Patterson Air Force Base in Dayton, Ohio.

Then of course there was the fallout from our last-minute decision to stay for Bayfield’s Apple Fest on the first weekend in October. We had planned to leave Wisconsin for Colorado in September after our second stint on Sand Island was finished. But once we decided to stick around for Apple Fest we had plenty of time to check out the un-visited lighthouses in the Apostle Islands; and drive the Circle Tour of Lake Superior; which led to the decision to go to Mackinac Island in Michigan but still left enough time to attend the Ryder Cup matches in Minnesota.

Improbably, but fortuitously, everything seems to have tied together in a neat bow, and it’s been a great summer.

Ranking the "Stops"

To help us (and our readers) "recap and recall" we’ve divided our summer travels into inartfully named “Stops” (for those readers that have concerns about my use of the word “inartfully” please refer to this column by the late William Safire where- among other things - he mentions Clark Clifford who was a confidante of Harry Truman whose biography Betsy and I both read during stays on Sand Island; speaking of serendipitous threads, not to mention parenthetical run-on sentences).

However “inartfull” the nomenclature may be, the ranking of these “Stops” was definitely an art rather than a science as we took into account the overall “feel” of the stop. For instance, Dayton is certainly not going to rank on anyone’s list of best cities and we stayed miles out of town in a non-descript KOA (albeit with really, really nice bathrooms). However, as previously mentioned, we loved the Wright Brothers stuff and the Air Force Museum and were pleasantly surprised when our stop at an out-of-the-way brew pub in a pouring rain yielded one of the best meals on the entire trip. Thus when we mixed these many pros with the city's inherent cons the "stop" in Dayton got a solid #5 ranking.

Door County, the cherry "stop" in a summer full of sweet ones.

With its laid-back ambiance, good food, great beer, beautiful scenery, solid RV “resort” campground, pleasant weather and excellent tour of Lambeau Field in Green Bay, our stop in Door County, Wisconsin was an easy choice for the #1 ranking. Not insignificantly I need to mention that Door County also yielded – hands down, no contest – the best brat on the entire trip (a singular but by no means insignificant honor).

We ate a lot of brats, of course, while we were in Wisconsin. However, because it’s normally difficult to distinguish one brat from another (they’re all good, right?) we did not bother ranking them. Yet there was one brat that stood out.

While we were waiting for the ferry to take us to Rock Island State Park on the very tippy tip of the Door Peninsula we decided to get a brat at a run-down-looking food stand that was the only place to get anything to eat for miles around and was staffed by a bored teenage girl who could barely be bothered to look up from her book (something by some guy named Steinbeck). The older woman cooking in the back (probably the girl's mother) threw something on the grill and after five minutes or so we paid a few bucks for the brat, some drinks and chips. Expectations were low when we sat down at a rickety picnic table and bit into the best brat either of us has ever eaten (and we've eaten a lot of them). The perfectly-seasoned meat on a soft, fresh bun at a beautiful place on a pleasant day added “Best Brat” to the slew of other things that made our "stop" in Door County the best of the summer . 

In fact, we liked Door County so much that it has made our short list of places that we might go back to if we ever decide to do a tour of favorite places we’ve been.

Every list has to have a bottom of course, and even though our stop in Duluth for the Tall Ships Festival ended up at the bottom of our list of “Stops” that does not mean we didn’t enjoy this lovely city on a pretty day. While the festival (which ranked 15th on our list of 17 special events) was crowded and not particularly interesting, we did take an informative tour of a 600-foot dry-docked ore boat and ate some fried cheese curds that ranked somewhere near the middle of the 16 different places where we ate curds (although it probably didn’t help that the Friday Fish Fry the night before at Barker’s Island in Superior, WI ranked 8th out of eight on that list).

Arbitrary as it may be, from Door County to Duluth, here’s our ranked list of “Stops”:

"Stop"
State
Rank
Door County
Wisconsin
1
Madison
Wisconsin
2
Bayfield Peninsula
Wisconsin
3
Milwaukee
Wisconsin
4
Dayton
Ohio
5
Lake Superior CT/Mackinac Island
WI, MN, ONT, MI
6
Sheboygan-Kohler
Wisconsin
7
Springfield
Illinois
8
Taliesin Area
Wisconsin
9
Indianapolis
Indiana
10
Chicago/Indiana Dunes
Illinois/Indiana
11
Wisconsin Dells
Wisconsin
12
Chippewa/Eau Clair
Wisconsin
13
Wausau
Wisconsin
14
Galena
Illinois
15
Chaska/Mankato/Ryder Cup
Minnesota
16
Duluth/Superior
Minnesota/Wisconsin
17

We also loved Madison, which reminds us a lot of what Austin used to be like before it reminded us of Los Angeles. The Bayfield Peninsula is, of course, our “summer home” and a comfortable, beautiful, low-key place with lots of favorite haunts (and not a single stop light). Milwaukee was a solid and surprising choice for the #4 ranking. We loved the Hank Aaron bike trail, the downtown waterfront, the art museum and Miller Park, one of the best venues in baseball. Like Springfield and Indianapolis, Milwaukee’s ranking benefited from having a state fair included in the "stop" but it also got a boost from German Fest, our top-ranked “Special Event”.

The Cheese Curd Rankings

Similar to brats, one fried cheese curd can sometimes be difficult to distinguish from another. They’re all good, right? However, when you get a really good, fresh, lightly-breaded, right-out-of-the-fryer curd there can be some separation from the pack. So we ranked the top five curd providers of the summer (including our very own Betsy Pasley who submitted her entry here in Washburn just a few days ago) and lumped the remaining 11 as either in the “middle” or at the “bottom” of the list. 

Fried Cheese Curds
Location
Rank
Curd Girl Food Truck
Madison, WI
1
Betsy Pasley's Homemade Curds
Washburn, Wisconsin
2
Harley-Davidson Museum
Milwaukee, WI
3
Voyageurs Brewery
Grand Marais, MN
4
Stone Arch Brew House
Appleton, WI
5
Lutheran Church Booth @ Colby Cheese Festival
Colby, WI
middle
Village Inn
Cornucopia, WI
middle
Brat House Grill
Wisconsin Dells, WI
middle
Wisconsin State Fair
West Allis, WI
middle
The Sports Garden
Duluth, MN
middle
Boulder Tap House
Mankato, MN
middle
Express Baseball Game
Eau Claire, WI
bottom
Timber Rattlers Stadium
Appleton, WI
bottom
Big Deal Burgers
West Allis, WI
bottom
Culver's
Ashland, WI
bottom
Draught House
Mackinac Island, MI
bottom


Curd Girl had the advantages of serendipity. We stumbled on the Bike Week Kickoff Festival in Madison by accident and, as we were unexpectedly enjoying some great beer in a pretty park on a beautiful day, we decided to check out the Curd Girl Food Truck. At the time we had been in Wisconsin less than a week but Curd Girl set a high bar that no one else (not even Betsy Pasley, who is rumored to have an inside connection) was able to match. Similarly, we just wanted to get a snack after touring the Harley-Davidson Museum in Milwaukee so, when our relatively low expectations were greatly exceeded, that may have been a factor that helped vault H-DM’s curds to the #3 ranking.
 
The Beer Drinking Venue Rankings


As dedicated readers of this blog can no doubt appreciate, it has been a daunting task just keeping track of our many beer-drinking venues, much less ranking them. Nonetheless we put our noses to the grindstone, buckled down and came up with a list of 42 separate, non-festival-related business establishments (both private and public) where we quaffed a cold one on this trip (please know that we also had something to eat at several of these places). We've ranked the top five and allowed the others to float below as NR (not ranked).

Beer Drinking Venues
Location
Rank
University of WI Union Terrace
Madison, WI
1
Humboldt County Park Beer Garden
Milwaukee, WI
2
Patsy's Bar
Washburn, WI
3
Draught House
Mackinac Island, MI
4
Lock 27 Brewing
Dayton, OH
5
3 Sheeps Brewing
Sheboygan, WI
NR
Pier Plaza
Bayfield, WI
NR
Sawmill Brewing
Merrill, WI
NR
Shipwrecked
Egg Harbor, WI
NR
Tom's Burned Down Café
La Pointe, WI
NR
Village Inn
Cornucopia, WI
NR
Stone Arch Brew House
Appleton, WI
NR
Liquid Johnny's
West Allis, WI
NR
Miller Field
Milwaukee, WI
NR
St. Francis Brewpub
St. Francis, WI
NR
Elbow Room
Indianapolis, IN
NR
Brewery Creek Inn
Mineral Point, WI
NR
Canal Park Brewing Co.
Duluth, MN
NR
Voyageurs Brewing
Grand Marais, MN
NR
The Foundry
Thunder Bay, ONT
NR
Michigan House Café & Brew Pub
Calumet, MI
NR
The Creamery
Bayfield, WI
NR
Red Eye Brewery
Wausau, WI
NR
Plymouth Brewing
Plymouth, WI
NR
Door County Brewing
Baily's Harbor, WI
NR
Brat House Grill
Wisconsin Dells, WI
NR
Moosejaw Brew Pub
Wisconsin Dells, WI
NR
Edge Pub
Chippewa Falls, WI
NR
Sheeley House Saloon
Chippewa Falls, WI
NR
Leiny Lodge
Chippewa Falls, WI
NR
Mike's Port Pub
Baily's Harbor, WI
NR
Draft House
Springfield, IL
NR
Camp 33
Tahquamenon SP, MI
NR
Bight
Thunder Bay, Ontario
NR
Reefpoint Brew House
Racine, WI
NR
Paulies Pub
West Allis, WI
NR
Sports Garden
Duluth,MN
NR
Fred & Fuzzy's
Sister Bay, WI
NR
Quartino's
Chicago, IL
NR
Uncommon Ground
Chicago, IL
NR
Hopleaf Bar
Chicago, IL
NR
DryHop Brewers
Chicago, IL
NR

Obviously the beer has got to be pretty darn good for one of these venues to make the Top 5 but there were a lot of places with good beer. To crack the Top 5 a venue needed something special to separate it from the pack.

As previously indicated Lock 27 in Dayton, the #5-ranked venue, had the advantage of being a total but very pleasant surprise when we found it in a suburban strip center on a rainy evening after a long day of exploring aeronautical history. If our expectations had been higher it’s possible our ranking may have been a little lower.

When we are traveling in other states we like to drink beers that were brewed in that state. Thus when we found out that the #4-ranked Draught House on Mackinac Island serves only Michigan-brewed beers - and has a whopping 50 of them on tap - it rocketed into the Top 5.

Patsy's Bar in Washburn, Wisconsin. Cold beer that we like, on tap. Great food. "Up North" ambiance. Close to home. Enough said.

The #3-ranked Patsy’s Bar in Washburn is the quintessential, small-town, northern Wisconsin bar that caters to locals (which we kind of sort of consider ourselves to be). The owner is friendly, the food is diverse and very good, it’s a short walk/drive from “home”, and it has several beers that we like on tap.

We could not believe it when we read that Milwaukee County has outdoor beer gardens in some of its parks. What a concept! And they’ve had them now for more than century!! While we were gone from Texas, one of our own Bexar County Commissioners was arrested for DWI at 3 a.m. in the drive-thru lane of a Whataburger wearing nothing but his underwear. Maybe we can get him to include a “beer-in-parks” plank in his re-election campaign platform? #2-ranked Humboldt County Park is a lovely place, it was a beautiful day, the beer was great and we managed to make it home with our clothes on.

Our kind of parks and recreation.

In a similar vein, the #1-ranked terrace at the student union that overlooks Lake Mendota in the heart of the University of Wisconsin campus was splashed with sunshine on a beautiful day when we stopped there for beers after a great day spent biking around Madison. Great beer at a fantastic venue on a beautiful day will always be a winning combination.


The #1-ranked beer-drinking venue of the summer was the University of Wisconsin's Union Terrace.

The Special Event Rankings

State Fairs have their own list, which has already been ranked and discussed in a previous post. If we had included this summer's three state fairs in the ranking of "Special Events" they would easily have snagged the top three slots, so that seemed pointless. 

The German Festival in a beautiful lake shore park in downtown Milwaukee was really the only other event with the muscle and substance to challenge the state fairs. The Apple Fest in Bayfield was a solid second place. The remaining events were either much smaller (Colby, Plymouth, Chicago Hot Dog) and/or less appealing because they either had too much of something or not enough. For instance, the Brat Fest in Madison was really big with lots of people and beer and brats and loud music blaring from multiple venues. But, after a couple of brats and some beers, there wasn't much left to "fest", other than one loud band playing over another loud band. On other end of the scale, the German Night in Plymouth, Wisconsin (near Sheboygan) was very low key with a high school band wearing German clothing and playing traditional German music. It was fun and a great opportunity to get to know some of the locals but it was not exactly the kind of event that quickens the pulse and makes a lasting impression. 

Special Events
Location
Rank
German Fest
Milwaukee, WI
1
Apple Fest
Bayfield, WI
2
Lincoln Grave Flag Ceremony
Springfield, IL
3
Devils Island Lighthouse Tour
Bayfield County WI
4
German Night
Plymouth, WI
5
Michigan Island Lighthouse Tour
Bayfield County WI
6
Chequamegon Bay Lighthouses
Bayfield County WI
7
Quincy Copper Mine Tour
Quincy, MI
8
Ryder Cup
Chaska, MN
9
Outer Island Lighthouse Trip
Bayfield County WI
10
Brat Fest
Madison, WI
11
Big Top Chataqua Orchestra
Bayfield County WI
12
Bike Week Kickoff
Madison, WI
13
Chicago Hot Dog Fest
Chicago, IL
14
Tall Ships Festival
Duluth, MN
15
Colby Cheese Days
Colby, WI
16
Peninsula Players-Agatha Christie
Door County, WI
17
 


The Friday Fish Fry Rankings

The Friday Fish Fry is a tradition in Wisconsin. Sometimes it's cod, usually it is all-you-can-eat and occasionally there is an option for grilled instead of fried. Every once-in-a-while there is an option for shrimp, which always prompts Betsy to mischievously ask the waiter; "Is the shrimp local?" 

But the "typical" Friday Fish Fry is anchored by battered, deep-fried, fresh-caught whitefish from either Lake Superior or Lake Michigan and is served with creamy cole slaw and a potato option.

Our de facto, go-to place for Friday Fish Fry is the touristy Pier Plaza in downtown Bayfield. However, we have a bias toward off-the-beaten-path places favored by locals and that predilection helped vault the Fraternal Order of Eagles Lodge in Merrill, Wisconsin to the number one slot in the rankings (the quirky role that the F. O. Eagles played in a quasi-landmark Supreme Court establishment clause case probably didn't hurt).

Although Betsy chose to order the fried shrimp (a rare Friday Fish Fry option) at the F.O.E. Lodge I had the whitefish and it was spectacular; flaky, moist, fresh, with a perfectly-breaded, crisp crust. 

Merrill itself is a small town on the Wisconsin River in the north-central part of the state, well off the beaten path. The F.O.E. Lodge is even further off that path, tucked back in a far corner of the little town. But the place was hopping on a Friday night and provided the quintessential setting for a true Wisconsin Friday Fish Fry. When you throw in the fact that Betsy said the shrimp "tasted fresh", F.O.E. gets our nod for first place over Pier Plaza.


Friday Fish Fry
Location
Rank
F.O.E. Lodge
Merrill, WI
1
Pier Plaza
Bayfield, WI
2
Patsy's Bar
Washburn, WI
3
Mike's Port Pub
Baily's Harbor, WI
4
Camp 33
Tahquamenon SP, MI
5
Liquid Johnny's
Milwaukee, WI
6
Sheely House Saloon
Chippewa Falls, WI
7
Barker's Island
Superior, WI
8


Having said all of the above there was a late entry by the Bayfield Volunteer Fire Department on Saturday during Apple Fest that had all but one of the essential elements needed to rank first on the Friday Fish Fry list, including - hands down - the tastiest fried fish of the summer.


Sorry Bayfield VFD. If you did this a day earlier you could have been #1 on the Friday Fish Fry list.
Great fish but on the wrong day.
Anecdotal Political Yard Sign Observations
 
We try to avoid getting into political discussions with strangers, and the locals seem equally cautious. However, our anecdotal observations of roadside signs seem to track with the polls that show former Democratic U.S. Sen. Russ Feingold well ahead in his quest to regain the seat now held by Republican incumbent Ron Johnson. The "Russ" signs have been out in abundance all summer and there seem to be more of them every day. There are fewer signs for the presidential candidates and they seem to be more evenly divided than the senate contest, but those too have been increasing in recent days and the majority around these parts seem to favor Clinton.

Trump seemed to have a slight edge in signs in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan but there were, perhaps, more Clinton signs than might be expected in an area where demographics would seem to favor Trump.

In our relatively brief travels in Minnesota Trump seemed to have a slight advantage in yard signs.

Final Days in Wisconsin

We closed out our stay here with the Apple Fest in Bayfield this weekend and it was a great event with beautiful weather. 




The Apple Fest parade in downtown Bayfield.

Goodbye Wisconsin. It's been a great summer!